I don’t think I would want to stay in Positano. Having said that, I can see the attraction of wandering its colourful streets once the day trippers have gone! As a family, we prefer a larger base with a bit more going on. Plus, although the getting there is part of the fun for a day trip, I would rather stay somewhere with easier transport connections. However, if you are staying in Sorrento (as we did) or further along the Amalfi Coast, you mustn’t miss the opportunity to spend an unforgettable day in this beautiful small town nestling into the cliffs.
How to get to Positano
Positano isn’t on the train route. If you don’t want to brave the windy Italian roads and somewhat crazy Italian drivers, your 2 main options are the ferry and the bus.
From Sorrento, the ferry is actually quicker and a whole lot more fun….. This is my preferred route. If you are travelling in high season, I would strongly recommend booking your ferry in advance. You can do this on an international website such as Ferryhopper.
We travelled in October and simply headed down to the Marina Piccola and bought tickets for the next service. However, even then, several of the return journeys were already fully booked. Luckily for us, the next free return sailing suited our plans.
The ferries take around 40 minutes to get to Positano and have indoor and outdoor seating, plus a small bar. The views are great, with Vesuvius and Capri on one side and the Amalfi coastline on the other. You also get a real sense of Positano as the ferry inches into the small harbour.
Spiagga Fornillo (aka the lesser-known beach!)
The main beach at Positano is right in front of you as you come off the ferry. There is a strip of public beach. However, most of this area is given up to the sunbeds and shades of private beach clubs. A day at one of these could be a relaxing treat. However, for me, you are paying not an inconsiderable sum, to lie in a row of sunbeds with hundreds of strangers.
My suggestion is to ignore the main beach once you’ve taken a few snaps of the town and head instead round the headland to Spiagga Fornillo.
While much of the beach is still given over to beach clubs in the high season, there’s still a decent chunk of public beach which is, in my opinion, far nicer than the main beach. We last visited in mid-October and none of the beach clubs were open at Fornillo which meant the whole beach was free to access. Conversely, the beach clubs on the main beach were all still in operation.
The sea is shallow and calm at Fornillo and my boys really enjoyed swimming here. This (like most Amalfi Coast beaches) is a black pebble beach so beach shoes are a good idea (but not essential).
How to get to Spiaggia Fornillo / Fornillo Beach
Positano’s smaller and much quieter second beach lies an easy and picturesque 10 minute walk from the ferry stop. With stunning views out to sea the whole way round, getting there is part of the treat. You will find the start of the path round to Spiagga Fornillo on your left hand side as you walk up from the ferry, just before you hit the first ice-cream shop.
Lunch
Fornillo beach would be a good spot for picnic. However, if you haven’t brought lunch, I would recommend eating at Fornillo Beach before you head back to the main beach. The restaurants / cafes are less busy, marginally cheaper and just as nice! We had an epic lunch with a view at La Marinella.
If you do decide to head back into town before eating, I would recommend wandering up the hill into the side streets. There are a number of small charming restaurants just a few streets off the seafront which offer a far more authentic and reasonably priced meal than those on the main drag.
Pottery shopping
Positano is justifiably well-known for its colourful pottery. Its narrow, winding streets are crammed with little shops selling brightly coloured jugs, bowls, platters etc. If your hold luggage won’t stretch to a large fruit bowl, most shops can organise international delivery (although I suspect the cost might be high). Even if you don’t buy, a mooch around town is a great experience.
Gelato
If you are travelling with kids, lunch will already be a distant memory for them. Stave off the “I’m hungry” moans and enjoy a gelato as you wander through the streets or along the seafront.
If you are travelling by ferry, late afternoon is probably time to think about heading back to your base. Dinner in Positano would be a lovely thing once the day-tripper crowd has gone but would involve an expensive taxi back at the end of the night! We chose to take a ferry back to Sorrento at around 5pm, giving us time to freshen up in our hotel before heading out for dinner. Check out my post for how to spend an amazing day in Sorrento as well!
