Again, I’m immediately confessing to a little bias. York was the closest city to me growing up and it has always held part of my heart. While I now live 250 miles away from this historic city, my family and I love to spend a day or a weekend in York. Read on for my suggestions of things to do in York.
Things to do in York: Overview of your 3-day York itinerary:
Day 1 – Walk the walls, City Walls Experience at Micklegate Bar, National Railway Museum
Day 2 – Jorvik Viking Centre, York’s Chocolate Story, Evening ghost walk
Day 3 – The Castle Museum, afternoon tea at Betty’s, the Shambles, York Minster
If you have another day
Day 1 – Walls and Trains
Just under 4km of medieval walls surround York city centre. Originally built around 700 years ago to protect the city from invaders, the tops of the walls were partially rebuilt a mere 150 years ago.
A morning stroll around the walls is the perfect way to get the feel for this compact gem and to get orientated.
Access to the walls is free and you can walk the complete circle in around 2 hours (there are points where you descend to the pavements and follow the route of the walls). There are numerous points where you can access the walls including Bootham Bar, Red Tower, Tower Gardens (opposite Clifford’s Tower), Micklegate Bar and Monk Bar. You can walk the walls from 8am until dusk, provided weather conditions are good. You can download an audio trail here – I’ve not tried this as it has only been recently created.
City Walls Experience
Micklegate Bar (or tower) is also home to the City Walls Experience. This interactive exhibition showcases the history of how York came to be a walled city and how the walls have changed over the years. The experience features videos from historical figures such as Margaret Tudor, Colonel Henry Slingsby and Harry Sowden, the last resident of the Bar. You can also look into the Bar’s tiny “bartizan towers”, possibly used as a temporary prison and see its portcullis.
If you are going to visit Jorvik as well, it is possible to purchase combined tickets here (which also cover Dig and Barley Hall),
Lunch
After all that walking, it will definitely be time for some refreshment! For cheap eats on the go, I would suggest the street food market just off the Shambles. Our faves of the permanent traders include Smokehouse Burritos, Pizzoli and Ambrosia Greek Street Food (try the chicken gyros). Also, for any veges out there, we would recommend Nukkad for its samosa chaat and spiced potato dosas.
If you are chilly and need a warm up, my favourite place for a hot chocolate is Cocoa Joe’s on Museum Street. This place is serious – very – about its chocolate. You start by ordering the chocolate, then any flavours and toppings. If you are not sure, like me, the chocolate barista (no, I’m not sure this is actually a thing but it seems the closest to what they do!) will ask you a very questions about what you like, make some recommendations and let you taste some chocolate nibs… You can even order a choctail!
Time for Trains…
Once you are suitably replenished, head for the National Railway Museum. Entry is free but you do pay for some of the add-on experiences such as the Flying Scotsman VR and Wonderlab.
If you are passionate about trains, this is one not to miss. Highlights include the Mallard (the world’s fastest steam locomotive), Queen Victoria’s railway carriage, the famous Japanese bullet train and one of the first intercities…. Other attractions include a model railway, the outdoor miniature railway (a firm favourite with younger kids) and steam train rides (on weekends and during school holidays).
Whilst it is all very impressive, be warned that most of the indoor display is not hands-on / interactive for kids. There are a few carriages you can climb into but most of the trains can only be viewed from the platform. The ones you can get on are busy and a bit squashy… NRM is part of the same group that operates the Science Museum in London and has now opened a Wonderlab with engineering challenges / experiments for kids. I suspect that this would keep fidgety kids like mine more occupied but we haven’t tried this yet.
Day 2 – Vikings, chocolate and ghosts
Jorvik Viking Centre
Whilst York can satisfy most historical interests, it is synonymous with the Vikings! York was invaded in 866 AD by Ivar the Boneless and his army. Renamed as Jorvik, the Vikings settled in the city and ruled over it in relative peace and prosperity for around 100 years.
To experience what it was like to live in Viking York (including the smells, oh yes the smells!), book a visit to Jorvik Viking Centre. Travel back to AD 975 on a 45-minute ride through the reconstructed Viking city of Jorvik. There is also a small exhibition of artefacts found on or around the museum site.
Tickets cost for £16.50 for adults and £11 for children (as at September 2024). Each ticket is an annual pass so you can return as many times as you want within 12 months. If you live in the UK, you can use Tesco Vouchers against the cost of entry. You definitely need to pre-book as queues are long otherwise (and with no guarantee of entry). If you have pre-booked, make sure you join the quick queue for those who already have a time slot
York’s Chocolate Story
After all that history, it’s time for a sweet pick-me-up! Located on King’s Square, just off the Shambles (Minster end), you can book a guided tour of York’s Chocolate Story or take part in a workshop. I would advise booking ahead for either, which you can do here.
The tour covers the history of chocolate, chocolate making demonstrations by master chocolatiers and the secrets behind some of the famous brands coming out of York (think Rowntree’s, Cadbury and Fry).
For a more interactive experience (and to eat your bodyweight in chocolate!), I would recommend booking one of the chocolate making masterclasses. Family workshops give you the chance to make and decorate chocolate lollies, to create personalised bars, and to experiment with filling truffles…. You get to take away whatever you make and you are plied with hot chocolate while you are working. Themed workshops are offered at Easter, Halloween and Christmas.
If you are not chocolated-out by the end of your tour or workshop, there is a lovely café on the ground floor with, you’ve guessed it, more chocolate treats and hot chocolate!
Evening ghost walk
For a different way to spend your evening, why not try a ghost walk. Many different companies offer these but The Original Ghost Walk of York has been running these tours for 50 years and is justifiably popular.
Led by an experienced guide, you get to explore the hidden streets and alleyways of this historic city and to visit spots that are said to be haunted. Learn about the infamous residents of York over the ages, often including a visit to Dick Turpin’s grave. Murders, plague and persecutions, there is a whole bloody history to explore!
If your legs are still tired after all the walking yesterday, you could take a ghost bus tour instead. I haven’t yet tried the ghost bus tour so can’t give any personal opinion. It does however get good reviews on TripAdvisor.
These walks should be suitable for children from about 7 years and older, unless they are particularly sensitive. Most don’t start until 7.30/8pm so may be too late for younger children to properly enjoy.
Day 3 – Museums, cathedral and afternoon tea
The Castle Museum
The Castle Museum is one of my favourite museums in York. It’s particularly wonderful in December when a blanket of snow carpets the cobbles and rooftops on the recreated Victorian Street.
Highlights of the Museum include Kirkgate and the original prison cells which once housed infamous highway man, Dick Turpin. Kirkgate is a recreated Victorian shopping street. You can visit the sweet shop (and buy some sweets), pharmacist, coach house and toy shop (all based on actual businesses which operated in York between 1870 and 1901). Contrasting with the affluent shopping street, Rowntree Snicket (alley) houses a candlemaker’s (a smelly and dangerous business) and the home of a poor family.
The Castle Museum is built on the site of York’s county jail (once the main prison for the whole of Yorkshire). Originally a debtor’s prison, you can visit some of the cells and learn the stories of some of the former inmates.
Adults / older children will enjoy the WW1 exhibition and the Sixties gallery, which aims to bring the spirit of this decade to life.
York Minster
Towering over the city’s skyline, you can’t miss this splendid Cathedral.
Entry to the interior is not cheap, at £18 for an adult (children enter free). If, like us, you would probably only spend 15 minutes for a quick walk round and a few gulps of admiration for the amazing stained glass windows, this entry fee feels a bit steep. A bit cheeky but you can walk through the entrance into the ticket hall and have a quick gawp without parting with your bucks. The Minster is a working church so you can attend a service (but you must behave respectfully). At Christmas, you can visit for the Christmas Tree Festival or to attend one of their carol concerts.
Afternoon Tea at Betty’s
Betty’s Tea Rooms is a York institution. Delicate finger sandwiches, scones and mini cakes on tiered stands, with tea served in the best crockery and a pianist tinkling in the background. This is a traditional Yorkshire / British experience not to be missed!
At around £50 per person, the bookable afternoon tea at Betty’s doesn’t come cheap but they will bring you as many extra sandwiches and pots of tea as you can manage…. For a more budget-friendly option, you can visit the tea room for a cream tea (scones with cream and jam, with a pot of tea). If you do visit, don’t miss the chance to try a fat rascal or a slice of Yorkshire curd tart…
What if I have another day?
If you are lucky enough to be enjoying a longer break, I would recommend taking a day trip out of the city.
Fans of Brideshead Revisited or Bridgerton (me!), will love a trip to Castle Howard House and Gardens. This is also a good choice for those with kids as it boasts an amazing adventure playground, part of which is located on an island with a rope bridge across. Kids will also enjoy a guided boat trip on the lake and the mini train which tours the grounds.
If you have a car, I would strongly recommend a hike around Falling Foss waterfall and Tea Garden. You can read more about Falling Foss here.
